Peeling the skin is a misnomer
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Peeling the skin is a misnomer

DANNE MONTAGUE-KING

 

In Egyptian times resins were used along with vinegars to “peel” layers of skin from the upper class Egyptian women who were trying to look ageless. Depending on the practitioner, results were often successful, but mainly due to the social stigma the wealthy did not have to go out and labor in the sun thus staying shielded all day long.

 

This eventually worked its way into the China and the Russia’s. Katherine the great used a masque made of mildew, apples and oats. The effects of this may be due to a mild form of AHA’s and polysaccharides from the mold resembling beta glucan activity, Oats are also in the Beta Glucan family. A Nobleman in Kiev, on Icon painter, also became a legendary Dermatolog treating acne by peeling with his Gesso mixture used in paint fixatives which was basically egg white.

The rest is slow history—first Europe and then the USA with stronger and stronger peeling mediums being used for more dramatic results.

Regardless of what ingredients were being used—and a great deal of secrecy was employed by so called “youth experts, it all boiled down to one facture. PH.

When common acids such as phenol, Trichloroacetic etc. are applied to the epidermis with a PH of 3.01 or lower, the protein in the redundant cuticle build-up is “hardened”, the cell group becomes brittle sort of like broken tiles on a floor, break up and detach from the epidermis. In some cases, dealing with age management treatments, skin suffering from Solar Elastosis or even ichthyosis, it is a highly effective way of removing superficial dead cells as a “door opener” to get down to the fresher cell migration and support epidermal growth and natural stem cell proliferation via Enzymatic treatments and amino acid, anti-oxidant and Langerhans cell support for maximum immune defenses. I found by adding a rubefacient, a thermogenic factor, to the formula stimulates a capillary back-flush that rids topical toxins from the area. This increased blood flow supercharges the mitochondria in each cell to product more ATP-or at least kick-starts the increased oxygen flow that becomes more significant with Enzymatic type treatments. This can be used with all kinds of machines such as LED etc. but, this simple but deep chemistry renders machines unnecessary.

 

For other skin anomalies going up to the other end of the PH scale is suggested.

 

 

This is applicable to acne situations where large pustules and papules are present, congesting the vellus hair follicle. Not only will all redundant cuticle be immediately being desquamated within minutes, clearing the area, but the hair follicle will be eroded, the top of the cyst opened and all pre-deposited waxes and bacteria-ridden fats will flush out. Any Demodex Mite, leading to rosacea, will also be destroyed via desquamation, including their eggs.

The control of this medium eliminates excess trauma to the skin and can lower inflammation.

 

The peel craze shows no sign of winding down as a primary treatment. Unfortunately, the stronger the serum the better the peel is thought to be. I have been guilty myself decades ago, going along with this theory of burning up the epidermis with chemicals. I had created a 95% phenol acid peel with highly caustic croton oil (some instinct told me to add olive lipids for more control that was painted on after anesthetizing the patient with a twilight anesthesia. We then taped the patient full face (allowing space for nostrils and eyes) and kept them in this painful masque for 4 days with nurse in attendance.

Of course, there was enormous erythema, a lot of valium and tramadol administered and after the tapes were removed, gross weeping and deep erythema!

At that time, we powdered their face down with Thymol iodide which started to resemble cookie monster!

After a few more days of this copious powdering we applied a thick vegetable based “grease” and warm-cloth soaks, breaking away this eschar crust.

Of course, at the end of the removal the patient had no wrinkles and a tightened appearing skin.

But also, no pigmentation or very little, a line of demarcation under the mandibles and ghostly, waxy looking skin!

A lot of older women (and some men) did not mind this, thinking that make up would restore their colour if there were no wrinkles. But the true story was that the original youthful look was due to the rapid defense mechanisms in the healing process and the real effects would show up a year later.

I had compromised all the “policemen” of the skin that regulated normal cell proliferation rhythm to the epidermis!  This included the rete pegs, the desmosomes, the enzyme collagenase was destroyed (the enzyme that determines how much collagen is brought to a site of injury, too much will result in a scar) and even the Langerhans and their dendrites were crippled.

I knew there had to be a better way and a few top Chicago plastic surgeons agreed with me and helped me in my research on how to not only remove superficial dead cell material without aggressive attack, but to rebuild the living cell sub dermis and even facial and neck muscle activity providing skin with everything it needed to resurrect itself for a life time.

During this research “peeling” or removal became only step one in a process of actual skin revision.

After removal, using low level acids, alkaline, the hydroscopic alpha hydroxy acids and intercellular “glue” dissolution using gluconic acids (I modified the old Jessner solution, salicylic acid with precursors that reduced inflammation, as a booster only) we focused on giving the skin what is wanted, needed and RECOGNIZED” in order for the natural reproductive systems of the skin to flourish!

Of course, this also segued into very successful scar revision based upon the same principles of remove, rebuild, protect and maintain that we used for acne or age management treatments. We just used various combinations of tools and applications, no special magic ingredient or machine for the alleged quick fixes people tend to be fascinated with. And it was all highly individual as to skin condition as opposed to “skin type”, another misnomer most skincare lines seemed to depend upon.

Retinoids had to enter this research as well—and back then not much was known about the marvelous rebuilding aspects of retinoid combinations. The drug Retin A (tretinoin) and it bad sister Isotretinoin (used as primary ingredient in the drug Roaccutane) were relatively unknown then, but I was fascinated with beta-carotene due to its non-toxic aspect in the skin and body.

Vitamin A from fish liver is very potent but also has a toxic boundary. Too much or too little can create the same contraindications in the human body. Supplement companies who had integrity would caution users not to consume over 20,00 IU in a day.

So, we embarked upon retinoid removal using minimal amounts of carefully selected retinoid esters plus a great deal of beta-carotene from various sources and managed to effectively remove superficial epidermal tissue whilst strengthening the underlying structures at the same time (remove and rebuild).

This stronger skin was especially good for 60 plus men and women whose epidermis and inter-cellular matrix were becoming thinner, looser and crepe’-like!

Apparently and previously unbeknownst to me infusions of vitamin A produced more fibroblast activity in the skin (collagen factories as I imagine them to be) so we had newer cell material to work with-but that had to be protected and maintained.

This is where compliance from the patient is absolute! Without daily maintenance along the lines of the actual professional treatment and its various chemical modalities, the ongoing results that I was becoming known for in those early years of exploration would not exist. In a way my little medical clinical trial team had its own Apotek!

The surgeons were happy because having their own prescriptions in stock was ongoing passive income that did not require hours of surgery or injections! Yet the patients had to come back on a regular basis for refills and many times booked in for other aesthetic treatments. When practitioner does great work, the patients want a “one stop shop” place where they get all their treatments, injections and clinical advice that may even extend to supplements, nutrition and surgeries if needed. It becomes a true life-style operation of wholistic control.

In today’s modern world a skin professional needs an arsenal of tools that back of a concept—as opposed to being dependent on the next new miracle ingredient product, machine, filler or toxin.

I stress CONCEPT as a working philosophy of science based upon the four things I have covered in this article: Remove, Rebuild, Protect, Maintain. In truth, this is all we can literally do topically. Yet it is a great deal when one considers that the skin and body is a complex organic computer comprised of water, a few chemicals, protein, orchestrated by enzymes and held in shape by electromagnetic waves and electricity!

Learning to control these elements by keeping everything in homeostasis has taken me a lifetime—50 years to be exact. And a lot of our research has been the result of contribution of giants in the field of science, many in fields unrelated to skin care but with pieces of a very large puzzle depicting the human condition and how to create an environment and habit that not only extend our lives and how we appear but to have a quality of life that allows each patient to fulfill their potential in personal relationships, careers and endeavors in the arts and sciences of our planet.

I am a mere observer of things around me—often a cynic when things appear too good to be true—the ‘latest thing in aesthetics often being some old idea, not that great at its inception yet dressed up in new high-tech terminology and pseudo-science that sounds great but often has no relation to how the whole of the skin actually works.

I now realize that I will never remove the word “peel” from our nomenclature! It is too provocative sounding, onion-like in concept like “rip off a layer of the epidermis and voila! New skin!”

The price I pay to being 75 years of age is seeing everything become trend, fade away and comeback again to a new generation often ignorant of what the older generation has already discovered not to be that effective and in some cases, downright fraudulent.

A good example was during my recent trip to Indonesia I discovered the entire aesthetic field to be controlled by a few “famous” European doctors (strangely unknown in their countries) and Americans touting fake epidermal growth factor nostrums and very dodgy injectables. All claiming to be FDA approved but in fact none were. Of course, the FDA has no real power in many countries so it is often used as a marketing device to assure safety and efficacy when in fact there is none.

 

 

If you examine the areas of tissue that are consistently covered against solar attack etc. you will see skin much younger than those areas exposed—in fact skin that is our real biological age.

Our mission is to match the exposed skin, face, neck, decollate and hands to the self-renewing younger areas providing the skin with the elements that allows it to do what does best—regenerate and stay in homeostasis with all its wonderful defense mechanisms working on concert day in and day out.

We do not have to chemically burn the epidermis nor vaporize it (CO2 laser) to get great and long-term results. I have worked with every type of “peeling” medium on the planet and none of them -no matter if considered gold standard or not are in my opinion a primary treatment.

A bit of pain, lots of effectivity – A facial, that brings me to tears
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A bit of pain, lots of effectivity – A facial, that brings me to tears

 

I’ve tried several different facials, but few of them are as rememberable as DMK’s enzyme therapy facials. While those usual relaxing treatments lovely and I enjoy for example face massage – it’s a totally different thing to leave from your facial, so that you don’t only feel the effect, but actually see it clearly. Who wouldn’t want to see results right away?

Today I’m going to tell you about a very effective facial and brand called DMK. DMK is quite different from other professional skincare brands. The facials are really different as well, because they don’t contain for example massage and the treatment can actually hurt a little. Yes, it’s a bit painful at times. I should also mention the mask, that tightens on your face and does it’s magic for forty-five minutes. You can’t really move your face during that time, but the mask does that for you – it works your muscles and it feels as if your face was at the gym.

Still it’s one of the most effective facials I’ve ever tried (this wasn’t the only time I’ve tried it) – and I’m excited, that I can tell you more about it through this collaboration with my cosmetologist.

 

Red as a lobster. And that’s all part of the DMK plan!

 



DMK skincare brand

 

DMK is an american brand, which ideology is to bring balance to the skin with products and treatments, that work together with your skin, not against it. The products contain mostly natural, plant-based ingredients. The ingredients are categorized pharmaceutical, so they contain more active ingredients compared to base ingredients.

What is my own experience with DMK skincare line?

I think it’s a quality brand and I wouldn’t put in on the same line with many brands. The products look a bit boring, because the idea is to make the products awesome – not to use money on it’s packaging. At the same time when I look at the products they seem medical to me – just as the treatments and the education manual (I once went through the education for work). Cosmetics isn’t supposed to absorb that deep in the skin, but with these products it’s said, that they affect the skin on cell level. In my experience they are effective.

So you do get your money’s worth with these, even though the price seems a bit salty at first. The consistencies of the products are nice and there are no additional scents used in the products.

 

Plasmatic effect (see those veins on my shoulder?).



DMK Enzyme Therapy facials

 

Enzyme facial is one of my favorite treatments. It makes my skin glow from within and every time I leave the appointment I feel as if I’ve gotten a little younger. It makes my skin feel soft, plump and clean – and the effects lasts for at least a week. My skin just feels and looks lovely.

Enzyme therapy creates a plasmatic effect by dilating capillaries.  You can clearly see your veins after the mask, as you can see from the photos as well. It increases blood and lymph flow to the skin, which you can feel as the mask tightens on your skin and pulsates (as I said, it feels as if your face was working out). This makes oxygen to rush to the dilated capillaries.
 

DMK enzyme therapy effects:

  • removes dead skin cells
  • stimulates circulatory system
  • stimulates lymphatic flow (so it removes puffiness from your face!)
  • brings oxygen to skin
  • stimulates collagen production
  • strengthens your face muscles

 

Enzyme mask.

 

The treatment is quite simple, but every single step has an important task.

Before the enzyme mask, your skin is cleaned and wiped with detoxifying tonic, that evaporates toxins from the skin. It’s designed especially for acne-prone skin and to them, whose skin is exposed to lots of toxins (for example air pollutants). The substance transforms toxins into gas, and that can sometimes cause unpleasent smells. In my treatment I could smell a weird scent, but it wasn’t that strong.

 

After DMK Quick Peel.

 

Then we get to the painful part – and I’ll be honest here and tell you, that tears were literally streaming down my face. Quick peel is a chemical exfoliant, that contains acids. Even though it’s super effective, it can be used on many different skin types. It exfoliates, it increases blood flow, strengthens the capillaries, removes toxins and helps with inflammation. It also promises to prevent scarring by preventing melanin production.

I can say, that this burns. I’ve experienced quick peel many times, but I didn’t remember just how bad it was. I was both crying and laughing, while Anu made me feel better with a fan. That fan is like an angel in that situation – it helps the burning sensation so much. Lucily it’s only five minutes. After the exfoliation your skin is supposed to be red – and in my case my face got extremely red. That is normal and the redness will fade, once the acid is removed from your skin. Here is another example of just how different this treatment is!

Still I would take that exfoliaton again – it’s so effective. Maybe it’s one of those things, you are willing to do – you know – for your beauty’s sake. Just like brazilian sugaring. It hurts for a while, but it’s definitely worth it and you go through it every month again and again.

Here is the simple steps to Enzyme #1 treatment. At the end of the treatment, several different serums and lotions are applied on the skin. One of the important things in DMK skincare is also sun protection and DMK’s sunscreen is indeed very comfortable and lightweight (I could have recommended it on my last sunscreen post!).

DMK Enzyme #1 treatment:
Deep pore cleanser – Cleansing
Epitoxyl – detoxifying toner
Quick peel – exfoliation, 5 minutes
Enzyme mask – mask, 45minutes
Last, but not least: serums, oil, vitamin c, herb & mineral mist, lotion, sunscreen
 
 
Anu does DMK facials in her beauty room in Hiushuone Neo in Kamppi, Helsinki. Enzyme facial lasts for about 120 minutes and it’s normal price is 149€. So you could say it’s a bit more pricey than the regular facial, but as you might have already figured, it’s not a regular facial.
 
 
 

 

 

Anu has an awesome deal for you right now: DMK Fundamentals kit, which contains one enzyme treatment done at the salon, and products for you to use for thirty days at home. Here’s a great chance to try not just the treatment, but also the products. It’s always recommended to use DMK’s own products with the facials, so that the results last for longer.

If your skin needs a boost and you want to know, just how good a quality treatment feels like – consider DMK’s enzyme facial.

Facials are always customized to be suited for the client. Besides the enzyme treatments, there are other DMK-treatments available. There is for example DMK Beyond Botox – The smiling face treatment, which is awesome for those who use fillers, to make them last longer and to prevent the need for them.

Have you ever tried DMK treatments? What do you think of it? Do you prefer relaxing treatments or the ones, that give you results right away?

 

Charlotta

Beauty therapist

Helsinki, Finland

7-8/08 DMK Program #1 education on working with DMK concept and cosmeceuticals in Warsaw
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7-8/08 DMK Program #1 education on working with DMK concept and cosmeceuticals in Warsaw

Primary training on working with cosmeceuticals DMK in Warsaw takes place on August 7-8. The DMK team invites all cosmetologists and dermatologists who are interested in cooperation with the brand. Registration: dmk-s.eu/seminar-reg-pol/

Advantages of working with DMK brand:
• DMK cosmeceuticals is certified by FDA, EMA, CE;
• The DMK product is universal, suitable for any type of skin and cope with various aesthetic pathologies qualitatively;
• The DMK production does not contain flavor, dyes, non-comedogenic and developed on the basis of natural ingredients, enzymes, amino acids and peptides;
• The DMK items can only be purchased from a certified specialist;
• Training in cosmetology is conducted by doctors-dermatologists;
• A possibility of getting experts’ advice from DMK training regularly improve knowledge at educational events;
• International DMK certificate and the right to work with DMK products worldwide;
• Marketing support and help in branding the company become a part of international family of DMK forever where there is its own philosophy.
Furthermore, starting collaboration with DMK, you get a nice bonus ‒ become a part of international family of DMK forever where there is its own philosophy – rebuilding skin, rebuilding life.